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iPad 2 Wifi Repair Guide

Further to our tear down for iPad wifi or iPad wifi+3g, finally the iPad 2 Wi-Fi repair guide is coming. We believe that you will be shocked by iPad 2's amazing design, high lever hardward.

At a glance on Tech Specs:

1 GHz Apple A5 dual-core processor
512 MB of LPDDR2 RAM
16/32/64 GB internal storage capacity
9.7" LED-backlit glossy Multi-Touch display with IPS technology (1024 x 768)
HD (720p) Rear-facing camera + VGA Front-facing camera

Head on over if you want to see the whole, sordid strip-down… and don't forget to see our iPad 2 Wifi+3g Repair / Disassembly guide.

 

Step 1 — iPad 2 Wifi Teardown

After a much awaited debut, the iPad 2 is expected to fill in the gaps left by the first generation iPad.
 

Step 2

  • A thickness comparison. You can definitely see the tapered edge of the iPad 2 when it's side-by-side to the old version.

  • Our guess is there are no more clips holding the front panel in place -- now it's glued à la 4th Gen iPod Touch.

  • With the iPad's new tapered-edge form factor, big iPod Touch jokes are sure to run wild.

  • Apple summarized the changes in 6 short phrases. "Thinner. Lighter. Faster. FaceTime. Smart Covers. 10-hour battery."

 

Step 3

  • A new model number graces the iPad 2: A1395. Thank you, Apple! That's much nicer of you than the twenty-six billion iterations of MacBook Pros you called model A1286.
  • Apparently, the iPad 2 is not as 1337 as the original iPad.

  • The sole speaker grate can be found on the bottom-left of the back of the iPad 2. We're not fans of mono, but stereo will have to wait until iPad 3.

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Step 4

  • Without further ado, let's begin tearing this iPad 2 apart!

  • Unlike the original iPad, it looks like we need the help of a handy dandy heat gun to remove the front panel.

  • With the adhesive loosened after a healthy dose of heat, we go to work on prying up the front panel with a plastic opening tool.

 

Step 5

And just like that, it's open. No clips, just tons of glue.

As much as we hated trying to remove the clips in the original iPad, this much adhesive is even more of a pain. Be ready to crack your front panel if you dare open it! We'll be investigating the best way to get inside over the next few weeks.

 

Step 6

A few screws here and there hold down the LCD screen. Not a problem for the 54 piece bit driver kit.

 

 

Step 7

After disconnecting its cable, the display can be removed from the iPad 2.

 

 

Step 8

  • Disconnecting the iPad 2 touch screen ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.

  • An Apple device just wouldn't be complete without Multi-Touch. No surprise there.

  • Removing the camera/volume control daughterboard connector from the logic board.

 

Step 9

Next we disconnect the iPad 2 dock connector ribbon cable from the logic board.

After disconnecting the dock connector, we disconnect the speaker connector.

 

Step 10

The logic board comes out without a fuss after removing the Phillips screws securing it to the case.

 

 

Step 11

  • After popping off a few EMI shields, we get a good look at the ICs on the logic board.
  • Interestingly, the Wi-Fi board is attached to the logic board under one of the EMI shields. It can be easily pried off its socket.
 

Step 12

  • The Wi-Fi board; powered by another Broadcom chip, a BCM43291HKUBC. Broadcom has made this Wi-Fi/Bluetooth/FM tuner combo chip a ubiquitous part for smartphones - lots of design wins.
  • This is the same part Apple used in both the first iPad and the iPhone 4.
 

Step 13

Notable chips found on the logic board.
 

Step 14

Backside of the logic board.

That's it. Nothing to see here, move along!

 

Step 15

Prying up the 3.8V 25 Watt-hour Li-Ion Polymer battery from the back case.

The iPad 2 uses three massive Li-Ion cells to provide an impressive 10-hours of battery life.

 

Step 16

Removing a screw that secures the volume control board to the case.
 

Step 17

Rear-facing camera comes out of its recess.
 

Step 18

  • Removing the board containing the volume control and silent/screen rotation lock button.
  • On this little board the AGD8 2103 gyroscope rears its pretty little head, next door to the LIS331DLH accelerometer, both by STMicroelectronics.
 

Step 19

After removing a screw securing the front-facing camera assembly to the case and peeling off a little more adhesive, the assembly can be removed.
 

Step 20

  • The front-facing camera assembly includes the camera, headphone jack, and microphone.

 

Step 21

Removing the two screws securing the dock connector to the case.
 

Step 22

After removing a few screws, the speaker assembly lifts out of the case.

The speakers are very small, almost as though they were added as an afterthought.

 

Step 23

  • The LCD is really easy to remove once the front panel is gone.

  • Only standard Phillips screws were used -- no Pentalobular or Tri-Wing funny-business.

  • The front panel is now glued to the rest of the device, greatly increasing the chances of cracking the glass when trying to remove it.

  • The LCD has foam sticky tape adhering it to the front panel, increasing chances of it being shattered during disassembly.

  • The battery is very securely stuck down to rear case, and you have to remove the logic board to remove it.

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